It is that time of the year. When Spring is beyond us and Summer is loading. The lovely green landscapes in Gozo start to gradually dry up with the limited, or non-existential rainfall. Fields start to turn a paler green, shifting slowly to brown.
It is June and the summer heat is soon approaching. Notwithstanding this, there is still a sense of survival in Gozo’s rocky valleys. Some flora actually adapt and survive. Amongst this flora you will find the caper bush which lines the rubble walls and rock edges of Gozo’s valleys.
Capparis spinosa, the caper bush, also called Flinders rose.
Fortunately there are still people who keep their annual custom of foraging these caper bushes. Once the caper buds are hand-picked, they are then brined in salt water for at least three weeks. The capers are then ready for retail in jars. If you have the opportunity, make sure to stock up on a jar or two. Stocks don’t last much as many hoard their yearly supply.
Where two local ingredients become one
Caper bushes are grown all over the Mediterranean from west to east. But for some reason on this little island in the middle of the Mediterranean, capers find their mojo. It is custom to brine the capers with the local Gozitan sea salt. Two authentic local ingredients which together become one.
Test your capers before cooking as they might need a quick rinse.
One little problem with the local capers is that some people don’t fancy them. Maybe not fancy capers as such but most probably because some cooks might overdo it and put too many capers. Another reason might be the inconsistency of the strength of the salt brining from one forager to another. Therefore best practice is to taste your capers before cooking and if needed give them a quick rinse depending on how strong the brine is.
Did you know there is a beer made in Gozo with capers?
In Gozo these is a little craft brewery with a big heart. The name of the brewery is Lord Chambray and they make some tasty and genuine craft beers. One of their seasonal beers is called ‘Flinders Rose‘ because it is specifically made in June with the local capers and sea salt. It is an interesting beer representing the freshness of a Maltese summer with a little savoury touch. Something once should consider trying on a visit to the Maltese islands.
Our Kitchen’s Secret Ingredient
At Maldonado Bistro we have come up with a little trick to give diners that desired umami of capers without actually seeing the capers on the plate. Let’s say it is like a secret ingredient when seasoning some dishes like grilled fish. There is something savoury but you can’t pick up what it actually is.
When June arrives we get in touch with one of the few caper foragers on the island and we purchase the caper buds raw and not brined. They might find it strange why but basically it is because we want to dehydrate the caper buds and grind them into a fine powder. The method is very simple but obviously there is a specific time window to get the caper buds before they have been brined. A little twist to how we use local capers. We hope you find the opportunity to try it out.
Caper ‘Pepper’ Powder
Equipment
- Oven
- Spice Grinder
- Small Jar for storage
Ingredients
- 500 grams Fresh Caper Buds (not brined)
Instructions
- Thoroughly wash the caper buds with cold water and leave to drain in a coliander.
- Spread the capers evenly on a baking sheet and de-hydrate in an an oven at 110°C for at least 5 hours or until the capers are completely dried and wrinkly.
- Transfer the de-hydrated capers to a spice grinder and grind into a fine powder.
- Pass through a sieve just in case there is any debris and store in an air-tight jar for storage. Keep in a dry place until needed.
Notes
Did you try this recipe?
Please let us know how it turned out for you! Send us an e-mail or tag @maldonadobistro on Instagram and hashtag it #amaltesepantry.
